Simmons GSLIS: Dispatches from the Field

30 March 2007 - Friday

Today was one of those days that didn't seem real... I was at the Iraq/Kuwait border today. The road to the border (Abdali is the Kuwait town) is long, straight and empty once you get past Jahra, just north of Kuwait City. The land rises slowly as you approach Kuwait, and alongside the road all you see are bedu tents, goats, camels, and not much else...a bit eerie. The land is scruffy, yet it is a traditional pathway for herding and grazing. At one time, borders in this part of the world were very fluid, and what are now called Iraqis and Kuwaitis and Saudis and were then bedu all trekked about in the desert on their own, seeking food for their stock of animals.

At the border, the guards were very helpful. One spoke some basic English, and he summoned a young man who was more conversant. While waiting for the young guy, we all had a half-nodding, gesturing, smiling chat with tea served. When the young guy showed, we had a chat, and then he invited me in to the compound/border area for a meal - - why not, says I, so in I go. We were served a plate of rice big enough for a family, some beef stew and some chicken - way too much food for lunch, but when in Rome (or the neutral zone), what the heck... I must say it felt a little surreal to be so close to Iraq. (As an aside, some of the land on the Kuwaiti side of the border used to be Iraq's, so I have actually been "in Iraq" if that counts.) After our brief lunch, I walked out on my own. The area is very quiet on a Friday, and I had this feeling I was in a movie, strutting out of the bad country into the freedom of another exotic place - I know, way too Romantic. The drive home went quickly, again with camels and many goats hovering near the road. The weather getting a bit hotter now, so the road had that kind of "hot sheen" whereby it seems to disappear as in a mirage... "Ok, Action: cue goats, camels get to the left, set up Bedu tents, spray road with water to create mist..."

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3 March 2007 – Saturday

Our visit to Oman was like going home again after a long absence. We were sooooo warmly greeted by Khalifa and Shamsa, who are the perfect hosts – “our house is your house.” Our first day was a wadi bash organized by Asya and Harith et al. into Wadi Abayid, just off of the Batinah coast. We had a feast, enjoyed the bash, enjoyed the old friends who came along and all the new ones we met, helped a van get out of the water after it got stuck, and generally had a great time.

The next day Fatma’s husband Zain took us for a local tour – new Grand Mosque (magnificent), fish souk, Muttrah souk (the oldest in Oman capital area), old Muscat and generally showed us the sights. Zain is a very nice man who is in the travel & tourism business – we enjoyed his company very much. That evening, the “Boston ladies” had us over for dinner. At one time, Fatma, Tarfah, Izdihar, Nadia and Hannadi all were in college in Boston and we sort of kept an eye on them and provided the occasional home-cooked meals on weekends. Fatma hosted the dinner, and we so enjoyed re-connecting with these young women, all of whom seem to be on a track to be very successful.

On our final touring day, Harith took us for a quick visit in the a.m. to Sultan Qaboos University. I have to admit I am proud of what I did there as far as the library construction is concerned – it still looks good, and the campus is lovely. We then joined up with Asya and went touring around again – capital area, the area where we used to live, the new marina area for a seaside lunch and then off to the Dive Center for seaside coffee and dessert – ah, the hard life.

Our final evening was again with Shamsa & Khalifa as they hosted a dinner party for us and their friends. It is hard to describe how warm and caring these folks are – they are the epitome of Arab hospitality, and we are very lucky that they are our friends.

Oman is truly the gem of the Gulf, and the Omanis are the best-kept secret – kind, decent people, well-educated, savvy, concerned with the success of each other and their country. We got the royal treatment from Khalifa, Shamsa, Harith, Asya, Fatma, Zain, the Boston ladies and everyone we met or re-connected with – we are indeed very fortunate to know and on occasion get to visit these wonderful friends! (And, we get to do it again in April, as we’ll return with Kurt & Abby and expose them to our friends and Oman.)

Upon returning to Kuwait, we kept Tom & Joan busy touring about. On Thursday we trekked out (with Kurt & Abby as well) to the Kuwait Camel Racing Club. The day was very windy, with dust storms and the area for the club is way out of town. It took us almost two hours to find the place, but well worth it. The races were fun – sparsely attended – and an interesting ‘event’ to add to one’s “what have you done lately” conversation…

Yesterday, T took Joan (and Abby went along) to the Friday Market – shop, shop, shop, the Kuwait national sport. In the p.m. we had tea with Zoe and Kym Suffi and her mom and two cute daughters.

So, that’s the social whirl for the past week or so – busy, tiring on occasion, and lots of fun. We know Tom & Joan got to experience some things most folks won’t, and we know they’ll have a different view of this part of the world – inevitable, once you’ve been here. We miss them already.

Do you work at all (often asked by Jim Matarazzo)? Well, yes – work these days has been relatively quiet. The semester has settled in to its routine after the celebratory holidays. We’ll begin hosting American Corner events this week (one on “truthiness” and the media), working with students on their assignments (I taught a session last Wednesday) and generally going about our day-to-day work. AUK is putting on several events this week for International Week – speakers, fashion show, films.

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